TIRANA, Nov 7 /ATA/ Despite being part of the “100 Villages” programme, the stone-paved streets of Arrëz and Sinicë, in Upper Devoll, remain largely off the tourist trail, attracting relatively few visitors.
The villages are easily accessible, either by road from Bilisht towards Miras or via a hiking trail starting in Dardhë, near Korçë, and descending through Arrëz and Sinicë before returning to the area’s best-known tourist village.
For visitors seeking breathtaking panoramic views and an authentic glimpse into the life and heritage of a remote yet historically inhabited area, the hiking trail offers an ideal route.
The trail begins in Dardhë, which, in the first days of November, is ablaze with autumn colours, as its forests and mountains are covered in vibrant foliage, ranging from the green of pine trees to the yellow and red hues of plane trees, walnut trees and maples.
With its characteristic tranquillity, stone-paved lanes and monumental houses, the village invites visitors to linger. Yet its surrounding countryside holds an even greater appeal, with its vivid autumn colours and picturesque trails.
Leaving Dardhë, the trail passes a sulphur-scented spring known locally as “Uji i Qelbur” before winding through the autumn-coloured mountain slopes. Mist and light rain add a touch of mystery to the picturesque landscape.
Deep in the forest, a sign points towards Dobërgorë, a local sacred site that brings together Christian and Muslim worshippers. Further along the trail, the village of Arrëz emerges like a scene from a bygone era, with stone houses and cobbled lanes, well-kept gardens and abandoned ruins, all framed by the rich colours and seasonal produce of autumn.
Near the mosque, a village café stands out from the surrounding lanes, with white smoke rising from its stove. Its owners, a father and son, offer the warm hospitality for which rural communities are known, welcoming visitors with twice-distilled plum brandy and Turkish coffee.
They say Arrëz is now home to around 100 year-round residents and has a nine-year school, while those who have emigrated return from time to time to visit their homes.
Once one of the area’s largest villages, Arrëz had nearly 1,200 houses during the Ottoman Empire. Its first settlers, all Christians, established the village at an altitude of 1,030 metres above sea level, seeking refuge from their enemies.
Today, Arrëz has a mixed religious population, while its new mosque was built with contributions from local residents as a tribute to the village’s history and traditions.
The village lies along the Devoll River, which rises on Mount Gramoz. Its geographical position ensures sunlight for most of the day, helping to ease the cold in this remote area, where winters are particularly harsh.
According to local residents, the village takes its name from its founders, who settled in a small clearing amid the forest, giving rise to the name Arrëz, meaning a small field.
The crisp mountain air carries the smell of wood burning in stoves, a reminder that winter arrives early in this area. We walk through the village along a stone-paved lane, restored as part of the “100 Villages” programme. Residents say other benefits of the initiative include the asphalting of the road from Bilisht, while the arrival of visitors has also encouraged the development of guesthouses.
The trail then leads directly to Sinicë, another village in the Devoll area included in the “100 Villages” programme. Like Arrëz, it is characterised by stone-built houses, cobbled lanes and homes arranged along the streets with striking precision.
Sinicë is a livelier village, known for its traditional stone houses, some resembling fortified towers, modern guesthouses and local hospitality. At its centre stands the nearly 200-year-old Church of St Nicholas, an important cultural heritage monument believed to house valuable frescoes and icons. Though restored with contributions from Albanian emigrants in the United States, it remains closed to visitors.
Near the village, an old stone arch bridge spans one of the Devoll River’s tributaries, while the Sinicë Waterfall, fed by mountain streams, is another popular attraction among visitors.
Sinicë is also a key stop along the marked Dardhë–Arrëz–Sinicë hiking trail, considered one of the most scenic routes in south-eastern Albania.
As we make our way back to Dardhë, the mist begins to lift, while the damp conditions bring yellow-spotted salamanders out along the trail, where they can be spotted moving slowly among the vegetation.
After the rain, mushrooms emerge across the forest floor. Dardhë comes into view through the mist on the mountainside, facing the spectacular Guri i Vjeshtës, whose striking autumn colours create a breathtaking panorama.
The village has returned to its quiet daily rhythm, with permanent residents going about their routines and guesthouses seeing off their lunchtime visitors. Locals say Dardhë comes alive again with the first snowfall, when visitors flock to enjoy its tranquillity and winter scenery.
The 17-kilometre trail connecting Dardhë, Arrëz and Sinicë brings together history, heritage, traditional lifestyles, natural beauty and spiritual values, making every step worthwhile.
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